I soon dived off the tarmac to take the more direct, dirt-road route, dropping down into a colourful valley, to the village of Antaparco.
A chap that night at the local bodega/restaurante insisted that I wish my family all the very best from the village of Antaparco – so there you go! A friendly bunch.
The next day was an easy drag through the warm (and mildly sandfly-infested valley) towards Ayacucho. Entering the city on the back roads was hot, dusty work but I eventually arrived on the outskirts.
And then headed for the city centre where, after a few tries, I eventually found a hostel with space – lots of space, in fact…
Not only did the excellent Hostal Marcos have a hose, with which I was able to give Sally a thorough clean, but it has a traditional bakery right next door with lovely fresh bread!
Popping out on the second evening in Ayacucho, I bumped into a pair of cyclists on the road outside, trying to find a hostel! Thomas and Tina, from Germany, promptly checked into the Hostal Marcos too and the next morning we set off together, they being Southbound on the same route…
It was a nice, relaxed ride, and great to have some company to share it with. Thomas and Tina are both riding Surly Ogres as well and it later transpired, as we unpacked our gear in the evening, that Thomas and I have eerily similar collections of kit. Clearly, great minds think alike!
As the day wore on, we began the usual process of searching for a camp spot but opportunities were limited. Passing through the village of Matara, we spotted a school and I promptly went over to ask if we could camp there. The young cleaning lady initially said we couldn’t but, after asking if there was a teacher around to ask, she suggested we try the second door on the left. The second door on the left turned out to be a large empty classroom and she then confirmed we could stay in there! Result.
Shortly after, three schoolkids turned up with a football and it soon became apparent that Europe would have to take on Peru at a high altitude contest (3500m). Within about 10s, Thomas and I were both bent double, desperately gasping for air! Needless to say, despite our height and strength, it was their numerical advantage and far superior fitness that shone through, Peru winning 7-5.
Amazing!!! It looks like incredible scenery and an experience that only being on a bike could make even more unforgettable. Take care, Abby xx
Thanks Abby – yep, numerous Peruvians have asked me why I’m not using a motorbike! It’s actually tricky to answer that one! But there’s nothing like cycling for random encounters and to really ‘see’ the country…
I love the beer can stove – great to see a simple lightweight cheap solution, and an impeccable design. X
Yeah, it’s very satisfying! I’ve already given one to someone else. Was contemplating getting rid of my main stove and going super lightweight but apparently pure Alcohol can be a bit tricky to come by in some places so I’ll prob hang onto it! Cxxx
Really fantastic blog and great writing Campbell. Well done and great to see you with that big grin on your face too. Looking forward to the next instalment.
Thanks dude!
Just speechless with admiration at the sheer physical achievement of those rollercoaster rides, more great pics ( including Thomas’s – how very generous of him), and the ingenuity of that beer can stove (can’t stop smiling at that one!).
Thanks! Cxxx
Nice post Campbell. I’m in Huancavelica now. How many days cycling did it take you from here to Cusco?
Hey, I took the direct route on tarmac and it was 11 days. Could prob do it in 9 or 10 if in a hurry! First day out of Huancavelica wasn’t great with roadworks but the rest was all smooth sailing…
Thanks Campbell!
If you want my routes, feel free to follow me on Strava…
Thanks Campbell, will check them out. From the looks of it 11 days to Cusco sounds like a pretty reasonably speed looking at all the climbing. How many days did you take from Rio Blanco to Huancavelica? (Just to know roughly how fast you’re going).
(Feel free to email me directly if you prefer.)
I think I took 10, as I was taking it fairly easy and wasn’t acclimatised to begin with…
I’d say 10 is pretty reasonable with 43+kg and needing to acclimatise. Can’t imagine how biciclown did it with 60kg, must have been a tough!!
Hi Campbell, it was a real pleasure to meet you at the inofficial Casa de cyclista in Cusco and enjoy together great vegan food and all the talks, discussions and funny remarks! Best wishes and hope to see you again latest on the laguna route, Antonia
Hey,
Absolutely! I’m sure we’ll bump into each other sooner or later!
Safe travels…
Epic as always dude!! Love that black n white shot of you! Proper Adventurer!
Haha, thanks!
Oh yes totally agree on hat black and white pic of you, super rugged! Love the random classroom camping and all of your other tales, carry on the adventures for us XXx
Thanks Lorraine!