That night the starry sky, made all the impressive by a distant lightning storm over the mountains, called for some photography…
The next morning we made sure to leave the classroom tidier than we found it…
It was another lovely day with not too long a climb up to 4100m…
…before we hit the daddy of all descents, a drop of 2100m over 40km of smooth tarmac to the valley floor below. Thomas and I raced most of the way down, perfecting our aero-tucks on the way…
…only interrupted by a brief stop for lunch…
After reaching the valley floor…
…we had to face up to the inevitable climb – the no. 1 rule of Peru being that what comes down must go up again! With Tina suffering from a little food poisoning, I pushed on ahead to 2800m to the town of Chincheros to find us a hotel.
Whilst in Ayacucho, after asking at about 8 different ferreterias (hardware stores), I discovered that they have a Province-wide ban on Bencina Blanca (White Gas/Naphtha) and Kerosene which I can run my camping stove on (as it is used in cocaine production in the jungle)! This prompted me to explore my options for creating beer can stoves, which run off alcohol and are very popular with the lightweight bikepacking crowd. I had read about them before but never got round to trying. Alcohol is widely available in pharmacies and is a clean fuel to burn, so it’s a pretty great option. Half an hour later, my new creation springs to life…
There’s an excellent instructional video here, if you’re interested in how to make one.
After a slow start the next morning, due to general weariness and a brief shopping excursion into Uripa (to find Thomas a metal mug to use with his own new beer can stove!), we pushed on up the next long climb…
…and crested the summit as the light faded, albeit with a breathtakingly beautiful sunset. Despite the imminent darkness, we couldn’t help but pause for several photo stops…
Upon discovering that there was no hospedaje in the first village we reached, and no camping opportunities either, we had no choice but to continue the descent. Darkness had fallen, so we arranged ourselves in a convoy, my front light lighting the way and Tina at the back with a rear light (and my head torch)! Fortunately, 7-8km further down the road we came to another villlage, this time with a hospedaje. The smooth road was thankfully somewhat safer than some of my previous post-dusk escapades!
Amazing!!! It looks like incredible scenery and an experience that only being on a bike could make even more unforgettable. Take care, Abby xx
Thanks Abby – yep, numerous Peruvians have asked me why I’m not using a motorbike! It’s actually tricky to answer that one! But there’s nothing like cycling for random encounters and to really ‘see’ the country…
I love the beer can stove – great to see a simple lightweight cheap solution, and an impeccable design. X
Yeah, it’s very satisfying! I’ve already given one to someone else. Was contemplating getting rid of my main stove and going super lightweight but apparently pure Alcohol can be a bit tricky to come by in some places so I’ll prob hang onto it! Cxxx
Really fantastic blog and great writing Campbell. Well done and great to see you with that big grin on your face too. Looking forward to the next instalment.
Thanks dude!
Just speechless with admiration at the sheer physical achievement of those rollercoaster rides, more great pics ( including Thomas’s – how very generous of him), and the ingenuity of that beer can stove (can’t stop smiling at that one!).
Thanks! Cxxx
Nice post Campbell. I’m in Huancavelica now. How many days cycling did it take you from here to Cusco?
Hey, I took the direct route on tarmac and it was 11 days. Could prob do it in 9 or 10 if in a hurry! First day out of Huancavelica wasn’t great with roadworks but the rest was all smooth sailing…
Thanks Campbell!
If you want my routes, feel free to follow me on Strava…
Thanks Campbell, will check them out. From the looks of it 11 days to Cusco sounds like a pretty reasonably speed looking at all the climbing. How many days did you take from Rio Blanco to Huancavelica? (Just to know roughly how fast you’re going).
(Feel free to email me directly if you prefer.)
I think I took 10, as I was taking it fairly easy and wasn’t acclimatised to begin with…
I’d say 10 is pretty reasonable with 43+kg and needing to acclimatise. Can’t imagine how biciclown did it with 60kg, must have been a tough!!
Hi Campbell, it was a real pleasure to meet you at the inofficial Casa de cyclista in Cusco and enjoy together great vegan food and all the talks, discussions and funny remarks! Best wishes and hope to see you again latest on the laguna route, Antonia
Hey,
Absolutely! I’m sure we’ll bump into each other sooner or later!
Safe travels…
Epic as always dude!! Love that black n white shot of you! Proper Adventurer!
Haha, thanks!
Oh yes totally agree on hat black and white pic of you, super rugged! Love the random classroom camping and all of your other tales, carry on the adventures for us XXx
Thanks Lorraine!